Ruffles, shuttlecocks, frills, draperies and other similar decorative finishes for garments are obtained by combining the fabric. This is not difficult to do, but you have to practice on an unnecessary shred. The skill is useful for creating clothes that reflect the current nuances of the trend of the upcoming season.
Designers offer shuttlecocks and frills:
The sizes of the finishing elements can be very diverse, while the designs of the models are not standard, but bold and creative. Dresses with assemblies in the shoulder area and layered skirts with draping will become the most fashionable. Ruffles on the sleeves, shelves or collars of garments add a touch of romance, and in some cases even visually adjust the figure.
What to consider when cutting
If you want to sew a dress, blouse or skirt with similar details and intend to cut it yourself, you will have to determine exactly how much fabric is required. To get beautiful folds, you need to consider the build factor. It varies from 1.5 to 2. Choose the minimum value if you want to get a barely noticeable assembly, and the maximum when volumetric is required.
Of great importance is the type of folds and the way they are formed. If it is constructively expected to obtain a simple dressing, then the tissue consumption is determined by multiplying by the selected coefficient. The additional length of matter on the formation of oncoming and bow folds is determined differently. To do this, you need to collect them, and then measure how many centimeters of fabric it takes to drape, and multiply by the number of elements in the product.
How to evenly pick up fabric manually
To get a beautiful assembly, you need to make markings on the fabric, and then you need to perform operations according to the algorithm below:
- Use a ruler and a tailor's chalk or disappearing marker to mark the needle puncture sites.
- Find the necessary accessories (you will need a strong thread and a long needle to work).
- Sew stitches to the designated points.
- After that, pull the fabric, forming folds.
- When the part size reaches the desired size, tack and distribute the material evenly.
- To make the seam strong enough, lay reinforcing stitch.
In this simple way, you can manually drape.
Assembly using a sewing machine or overlock
This method is the easiest and most reliable. Assembly using a sewing machine or overlock will not take much time. And special paws and accessories will not only speed up the process, but also significantly improve the aesthetics of the product. Professionals advise to thread in the device not a usual thread for sewing, but silk.
The upper tension regulator on the machine needs to be loosened, the stitch value is set to the maximum value. You will get an amazing effect if you lay not one, but two lines located at a distance of 3-5 mm. Now you need to pick up the fabric. To do this, pull the thread from both ends of the seam, smoothing the material. You need to pull the thread from the wrong side so that the folds are formed on the front.
With the help of a modern overlock, you can make pick-up even faster. To do this, set the stitch length to maximum, turn the differential handle to the “Assembly” designation, in this case, the pitch of the stitch is better to choose 4 mm. The thread tension does not need to be changed. Now it remains to lay a seam, and you will receive a part with an assembly.
You will need:
- dental floss (best waxed)
- sewing machine
You can use regular dental floss, but waxed glides better, which will make the process even faster and more convenient.
Put the thread on the wrong side of the product about 1 cm from the cut, leaving a tail of 5 cm. Lower the clipper foot so that the thread is exactly in the center.
Set the machine on a wide and long “zigzag”. Begin stitching, making sure that the needle does not touch the dental floss - it should not be sewn to the fabric, stitches should cover it on top.
When finished, cut the floss close to the tissue, and leave the same floss of a 5-centimeter tail as on the other side.
Grasp one of the ponytails and pull, picking up the fabric, then repeat on the other side.
If you, as in our example, sew a dress with a fitted skirt, continue to stretch the dental floss until the width of the skirt is equal to the width of the bodice detail.
After your parts are sewn, simply remove the thread by pulling it whole. Easy and fast!